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历史走道⊙武吉布朗 听墓碑说故事

Zaobao News
May 26, 2013

历史走道⊙武吉布朗 听墓碑说故事

   
武吉布朗三名义务导游,左起:林明辉、林志强、吴安全


武吉布朗(Bukit Brown)因为要让位给新道路,其中约5000多个坟墓必须迁移,其余95%的坟墓今后相信也得让位给住屋发展计划,难逃被挖掘的宿命。这个消息在2011年9月公布后引起广泛注意,许多人担心蕴藏在武吉布朗的历史将随着发展计划的落实消失于无形。

于是10多名热爱历史文化的热心人士开始深入坟山,进行史料收集和记录工作,并根据收集到的资料归纳出四条历史文化路线,还义务导览,尽自己所能让公众多认识武吉布朗的历史。其中吴安全(50岁)是第一个带团到武吉布朗探秘的寻墓人,2006年便开始在武吉布朗导览。吴安全是一名药剂师,每逢周末他就会到坟山帮人寻墓,也发掘历史。林明辉则是一名瓷砖专家,专门从坟墓的瓷砖上搜集史料。武吉布朗有三名华语导游,林志强是其中一人,他感兴趣的是墓碑上承载的历史。

这次采访以武吉布朗二号山历史文化路线为重点。那里树木成林,杂草丛生,但隐藏在坟山深处的却是丰富的珍贵史料,包括文化、手工艺术、民俗、民间信仰、文学、先贤资料等等,不一而足。

像个露天博物馆

林志强说:“这里的文化历史比想象的丰富,甚至还可以纠正历史。”单单武吉布朗二号山就是一座看也看不完的露天博物馆!

新加坡开埠后,各地移民蜂拥而至,很快的这里不仅变成东南亚的交会点,也成了东西文化融合的地方。

武吉布朗是一座华人坟场,但在这里却可以找到两个荷兰文、三个泰文和两个日文墓碑。其中荷兰文墓碑在大门右边,离柏油小路不远。林志强用粉笔一刷,用枯叶一扫,碑文依稀可见。印度尼西亚独立前曾受荷兰殖民统治,从姓氏来看,长眠者应该是从印尼移居于此的华人。

二号山入口附近有一座造型与众不同的坟墓。墓碑用大理石打造,远看犹如一栋矗立在绿丛中的西式大楼,碑文是铅铸贴上去的英文,西洋色彩浓厚。

传统华人坟墓通常左右各立一中式金童玉女,那里一座古坟金童玉女是一对西式天使,身上是中式的彩带,女的袒胸露乳,男的打中国结式领结。坟墓两旁还有本地特色的浮雕锡克守门人,以及以中国古典名著《三国演义》为题材的浮雕装饰。是一幅中西和本地文化拼图,像冷盘一样多姿多彩。



墓碑雕刻素材多元

武吉布朗有许多雕刻精细的古墓,搜集墓碑史料近两年,到现在林志强还没发现细节相同的雕刻。有的雕刻还采用镂空雕法,细幼处细如绳索,是匠工巧手独运的成果。雕刻素材多样化,包括大家所熟悉的古典文学和典故,已发现的计有《空城计》、《白蛇传》、《西厢记》、《哪吒闹海》、《二十四孝》、《八仙过海》等。除了雕刻,义务导游还发现了一个用景德镇瓷砌画美化的坟墓。

新艺术运动开始于1880年代,在1890年至1910年达到顶峰。那时欧洲盛行以800到1100摄氏度烧制的彩色瓷片。这些瓷片全为手工制作,表面为金属原料,耐用且色彩鲜艳。1920年到1935年日本也出现效仿欧洲工艺制作的瓷片,但色泽略逊一筹。

林明辉说,欧洲和日本彩瓷片在武吉布朗都有发现,他还发现两片镶嵌在二号山一座古坟上的欧洲彩瓷,与现存宏文学校的彩瓷同出一辙。他说:“这恐怕也是本地硕果仅存的同系列彩瓷。”

华人民间信仰相信万物都有神明庇佑,墓地也不例外。传统华人坟墓都要供奉庇护坟墓的神明。从最早的后土——道教的一位女神,到后来的男性神大伯公或福德正神,再到后来福建人供奉的山灵,客家人供奉的龙神,潮州人供奉的土地之神等,以及之后以图像表现或彩瓷拼成的大伯公。林志强说,这种民间信仰的演变在武吉布朗都可以找到例证。

文字体现民俗差异

武吉布朗上的墓碑还体现了福建人与潮州人的民俗差异。那里的潮州人墓碑按性别爱以祖考或妣标识逝者身份,女性跟男性一样保留原有的祖籍或出生地,但不列后人名字。福建人墓碑一般都列后人名字,但只列男性祖籍。是民俗研究者很有价值的研究资料。


墓碑上的文字也随时代变迁而改变。清代年间辈份高长者墓碑称谓抬头都会冠上“皇清“或“皇”。“皇”除君主还有盛大的意思,清代灭亡民国诞生后开始改用“大”字。“大”已没有君主的含义,但还是对年长者的一种尊称。这种转变显然与时局变化有关,是身份认同的表征。满清掌权,人们以清代子民自居;满清倒台,人们便与清朝划清界限。

身份认同也反映在墓碑的其他细节和字里行间。先贤陈文学的墓碑上有两面五色旗(又称五族共和旗),是中华民国建国初年执政的南京临时政府和北洋政府所采用的国旗。这座墓碑中的国字,当中是个民字,人民当家做主的含义呼之欲出。坟墓主人或立碑者的政治立场不言而喻。

陈文学为何许人?《义顺社区发展史》说他是先驱人物陈嘉庚的叔辈,一说是陈嘉庚的堂兄。何者正确?林志强说,手头上的一封陈家家书当能揭开谜底。可惜家书以罗马化福建话书写,解读难度大,相信短期内不可能有答案。



华社先贤动人事迹

武吉布朗占地86公顷,有10万多个坟墓,也是许多华社先贤长眠之地,单单二号山就有好几位。他们的墓碑也许并不起眼,却深藏着一段段动人事迹,一些更是中国和东南亚人民的共同记忆。

武吉布朗及附近一带已知有18个同盟会会员墓,黄肖岩墓是其中一个。祖籍金门的黄肖岩,曾参加同盟会,奔走宣传革命,也是南洋女中与南洋工商补习学校的创办人之一。卢沟桥事变,金门沦陷,他还来函吁请新加坡金门会馆筹款救济难民。

蒋玉田,祖籍福建同安,是1906首批同盟会会员之一。他去世时同盟会为他在报章上刊登的讣告以义不容辞抬头,可见他受会员敬重的程度。此外,他的墓碑还刻“是国民党老同盟先知先觉,为华侨界代议士尚系后思”,是本地罕见尚存提及国民党的墓碑。

晚晴园的第一个主人梅泉宝也葬在武吉布朗二号山,晚晴园是他在1902年所建的。

武吉布朗确实是一座宝山,它能为我们揭开许多尘封的史实。

葬在二号山的薛中华,是新加坡福建帮开山鼻祖薛佛记的曾孙。1922年启用的武吉布朗坟山,就是时任福建会馆主席的薛中华和另一名华社领袖陈谦福积极筹划的。此外薛中华也担任中华总商会领导职务,英殖民地政府曾委他为太平局绅。他本身则是汇丰银行的买办,据说,他坟头还有一头造型与汇丰银行完全一样的小石狮。

李金赐是潮阳会馆的创办人之一,曾领导端蒙学校、潮阳会馆和义安公司,也担任过中华总商会、潮州八邑会馆、醉花林俱乐部的董事。他是一名商人,除自制水泥器具,经营铁打黑油外,也在新山和巴生设厂生产火柴。他的墓碑设计非常独特,就好像一个竖立着的火柴盒。

武吉布朗肯定也葬着诗人的尸骨,有的墓碑上还以“诗者”标注。到目前为止共发现了两个,其中一人为葬在二号山的康研秋,他曾是中华总商会的秘书,另一人为潮州诗人冯蕉衣,郁达夫在《星洲日报》担任副刊编辑期间,他曾协助郁达夫处理稿件。

(联合早报网编辑:卢凌之 )


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History from the Hills - Episode 1


History from the Hills - Episode 1




Bukit Brown Cemetery was the focus of attention when in 2012, the government announced that about 5,000 graves would be exhumed to make way for new roads. Facing public outcry, a month later in March 2012, the government reduced the number to 3,746 graves being removed.
Established on 1st January 1922, Bukit Brown Cemetery was a piece of land which used to belong to George Henry Brown (hence, Bukit Brown). After being taken over by the government, the land was converted into a cemetery following pressure from the Chinese public for a municipal cemetery. And by 1929, just barely 7 years after being established, Bukit Brown was the final resting place for over 40% of all Chinese burials.
Presently, Bukit Brown holds more than 100,000 graves, and many of them are unmarked or unclaimed. There is a ground level action, albeit slowly, to catalogue and link them back with families whose ancestors might be buried there. The government has announced that by 2040, the cemetery will be no longer, replaced by housing -- such is the necessity in land-scarce Singapore.
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The forgotten heritage at our own backyard


On Jun 19, 2012, the Government of Singapore officially deposited with the Director-General of UNESCO its instrument of ratification, becoming the 190th State Party to accept the Convention concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage.

On 19 Sep 2012, Singapore becomes 190th State Party to the World Heritage Convention.
On 7 Dec 2012, Singapore National Commission for UNESCO submits its Botanic Gardens on the Tentative List, which Singapore consider to be cultural and/or natural heritage of outstanding universal value and therefore suitable for inscription on the World Heritage List.
But yet, do you know we can have another cultural and natural heritage of outstanding universal value, one that is still yet unappreciated by the public at large, and that the government
is planning to drive a highway through it to alleviate traffic congestion?
If we are to check the tripadvisor website, we would be surprised at the excellent reviews of the place there.
Why is this so?  Is it not merely a cemetery of tombstones and bones?   The government has cleared many cemeteries in the past.  What makes this cemetery so special?
Week after week,  more and more people from all walks of life, tourists, students, children and housewives are coming to Bukit Brown and beginning to realize the significance historical and cultural importance of this place.
For those who have been there and walk the grounds,  each and everyone is touched and awed by the sights and sounds they can see and feel at Bukit Brown, a hidden historic gem
that awaits discovery.
History and Heritage
For the cosmopolitan Singaporeans, it still come to them as a surprise that the Bukit Brown area is the largest Chinese cemetery complex in the world, with more than 200,000 tombs
(The greater Bukit Brown is estimated to be about 233 hectares in size and encompasses the municipal Bukit Brown Cemetery and 3 other adjacent cemeteries)
It is also the mother of all cemeteries in Singapore, whereby graves from previous cemeteries were re-interred in Bukit Brown.
As recently as a few months ago,  the tombs of the first batch of  pioneers who came during the time of Sir Stamford Raffles, dating all the way back to the 1820s was
discovered in the greater Bukit Brown area. In fact, many of the history and heritage of this place is just coming into light within these 2 years.
Recently the government has started to promote Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall (Wan Qing Yuan)  a heritage institution under the National Heritage Board, which traces Dr. Sun's revolutionary activities in the Southeast Asian region and highlights the impact of the 1911 Chinese Revolution on Singapore as well as Singapore's contributions to the Revolution.
And yet, few would know that the only place worthy to be a Revolutionary Mausoleum, whereby 20 members of the Tong Meng Hui (Chinese Revolutionary Alliance) members who supported Dr Sun and 15 members of the early Chinese Republic Party formed at that time is actually at Bukit Brown.
Inscription : A Revolutionary alliance pioneer and overseas Chinese representative with foresight
More than a century of transition of power and change in China can be reflected in the tombstones of Bukit Brown, from the Qing dynasties of Daoguang, Xianfeng, Tongzhi, Guangxu, Xuantong,
period where great changes take place like the Taiping rebellion, the remnants of the Qing dynasty after the Republic is formed, the Republican Year, Mingguo,
followed by the Japanese conquest of Koki years, Syonan years. Also included is the two thousand year old Confucius calendar
These combined calendar system are unique in the world.
Singapore, being the crossroad of the east and centre of Nanyang, we can see the shared history between its neighboring countries, like Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia being reflected in the tombstones
of Bukit Brown. There is also a very rich material unique culture of the Peranakan reflected in the tombs of Bukit Brown.
Also found are more than 30 pairs of stone Sikh guards, most of them unique, and believed to be modeled after real Sikh guards/photos
The whole cemetery is also a showcase of Chinese mythology and cultural beliefs in the sculptures
For the municipal cemetery of 100,000 tombs, each and every tomb is recorded with name, address, age and other details, Together with the tombstone inscriptions,
each tomb can tell a diasporic journey from a village in China to Singapore.   There are also clusters of tombs that denigrate families, friends, societies, religious and business relationships
All these are buried irregardless of religious and dialect groups.
Different religious and cultural beliefs and different Chinese dialect groups, Hokkiens, Teochews, Cantonese, Hakka, Hainanese
reflecting the Chinese diaspora from southern China into Nanyang.
Few would also know that Bukit Brown is also a war cemetery. Thousands of unidentified bodies were buried in communal trenches which so far lay undiscovered. 
WW2 battles were also fought on the hills of Bukit Brown
More than 30 pioneers buried there have streets in Singapore named after them. Also buried are founders of schools, banks, clan associations.
Nature:
As highlighted by Nature Society of Singapore, Bukit Brown is a Natural Air-conditioner, contribute to carbon sequestration, act as rainfall sponge, and has 25% of the total bird species recorded in Singapore (91 out of 364 species). Of these, 13 bird species found in Bukit Brown are nationally threatened.
There has also been recent sighting of large flying fox thought to be extinct in the main island. Other fauna include butterflies, snakes, monkeys, pangolins etc
It is currently in active use for horse riding, cycling, hiking and other recreation activities.
In conclusion, it is a living museum like no other and what we are searching for, our shared identity, our roots, our heritage, a cultural gem that future generations can benefit, that is uniquely Singaporean can just be found in our own backyard.
For those who has come to Bukit Brown and experience it for themselves,  it is a live on-site museum, touch stones of living memories, the physical and emotional anchors for the future generations of Singapore that can root them and make them feel connected.
As the conclusion for the video "Finding Bukit Brown" produced by a group of final-year students at the Wee Kim Wee School of Communication and Information aptly put it :

"It is this collective memory that differentiate a home from a hotel. For Singaporeans who want something to hold on to, there is no need to look any further than one's own backyard".
Raymond Goh

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